ALL ABOUT RABBITS
A Little History
The House Rabbit
A Quick Glance -
Spaying & Neutering -
Life Expectancy -
Diet -
Handling -
Grooming -
Bonding -
Litter-Training -
Breeds -
Healthcare
Emergencies -  
Recommended Vets in Singapore -
Common Illnesses -
Preventive Measures -
Care for the Sick -
Air Travel with Rabbits
Pregnancy & Rabbits
General Misconceptions
Why Breeding is Bad
Confronting Animal Abuse
 

 



 
 

The House Rabbit
Bonding

Know What to Expect
Taken from the books 'The Essential Rabbit' & 'The Rabbit Handbook'

I'm so glad I brought another rabbit home. My other rabbit took to her right away and now they've become almost inseparable."

"I'll tell you, I almost wish I hadn't gotten another rabbit. My first rabbit, Buster, is so angry he doesn't want anything to do with the new bunny. He keeps chasing him away."

Either of these scenarios is possible when you first put rabbits together. A proper introduction is important.

You will not need to spend much time introducing rabbits to each other when both are new; there are few that will not adjust quickly. Introducing a new rabbit to one or more that are already in the house and have established a territory can be more complicated.

The easiest introductions will be between females and males. Even when a doe and buck do not immediately take to each other, there is rarely any significant trouble between them, but introducing members of the same sex can be an entirely different story. Females may get along from the start, or they may fight, while fighting is very common among males introduced to each other. It is not recommended to keep two intact (not neutered) males together, but two neutered males may be able to get along.

Keep in mind that rabbits are very territorial. A first introduction should take place in a neutral space which no rabbit considers its territory. A room your rabbit has not been in or a new pen in the yard may be good options. You can also introduce them outside your home altogether to prevent any territorial feelings.

Any interactions at first should be well supervised. Do not interfere with the meeting unless there are true signs of aggression. Give them a chance to work things out on their own. If one rabbit wants nothing to do with the other, or if they fight, you will need to make a more gradual introduction. Try to break up a fight with a spray of water before jumping in yourself.

If your first rabbit is anxious about the new addition, you can help relieve the anxiety by making sure that positive things happen when the new rabbit is around. For example, if your rabbit especially enjoys being rubbed in a certain area, rub them while you let the other rabbit move around the room. You can also give the rabbits treats when they are near each other. The idea is for the rabbits to associate positive experiences while being together.

For rabbits that want to fight with each other, you will need to set aside time everyday to supervise them in neutral territory. You might start by having the rabbits on opposite sides of a gate, so that they can see each other but not interact. Make sure you reward them for good behaviour and correct bad behaviour. Bad behaviour, such as lunging for the other rabbit, can be corrected with a loud voice or noise or a spray of water. As the rabbits learn to accept each other, or at least ignore each other, you can give them more time together with no barriers between them. Do not leave them together unsupervised until you are absolutely sure they will no longer fight.

 

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